As apparent from the headline! Today we have a very challenging but fun DIY project for you guys. While building a subwoofer can be a little technical, it is surely an exciting project to get your hands on.
In this article, I will explain to you how to build a ported subwoofer box and save some cash. There are some minor technicalities along the way which we will discuss step by step. Overall, this will be a learning experience if you intend on building a subwoofer box.
Supplies Required for the Project
These won’t cost you a lot of bucks and you can use them for some other projects as well. Below is the list of some major supplies which are required for building a ported subwoofer box at home.
- A jigsaw
- A table saw or circular saw
- Electric drill for pre-drilling screw holes and driving screws
- ¾’’ medium density fiberboard
- 2’’ drywall screws
- Panhead sheet metal screws (1/2’’ and ¾’’)
- Carpenter’s glue
- Silicone caulk
- Non-hardening rope caulk
- Speaker terminal cup
Step By Step Ported Subwoofer Box Build:
Now, let’s start our much-anticipated project, so fasten your seat belts as this is going to one hell of an interesting experience. Firstly, we will share our dimensions for this project specifically. And only after that, we will move towards the steps which are required for completing the build of the ported subwoofer box.
Choosing The Dimensions:
For the box that we are going to build today, let’s use these dimensions for clarity:
- Height: 13’’
- Width: 14’’
- Depth: 12’’
- Height: 11.5’’
- Width: 12.5’’
- Depth: 10.5’’
You can make changes to these dimensions based on the space available in your vehicle.
- Firstly, you will have to use a table saw with a carbide-tipped blade to cut the medium-density fiberboard. You will have to cut the medium density fiberboard for the front, sides, back and the top of the box. Do not miss any side.
- In total, there will be seven cut pieces in total for this project.
- Top and bottom, two sides, the back, and two identical ones for the front side of the box.
- Once you have cut the medium density fiberboard, you will need to use a compass to mark the space where your woofer cutout will be. It will be marked on one side of the identical front piece which we have cut above.
- A double-thickness of medium density fiberboard for the front panel is recommended for better sound output. You will have to stick the two identical front pieces together with the help of carpenter’s glue and a bunch of metal screws.
- Next, you will have to use a drill press, to make a hole near the inside edge of the circle which you have marked earlier. After this, cut out the circle with the help of a sharp jigsaw so that the woofer opening is finished.
- The next step is easy; by using the same drilling procedure make a rectangular hole in the box’s backside. This will eventually hold your terminal cup that will be done in the next step.
- By using silicone caulk around the edge of your terminal cup, screw it using a ½” sheet metal screws.
- Moving on, since we have worked thoroughly on the back and front pieces. Now, it is time to stick everything together and bring the subwoofer box into the ultimate visual shape. Firstly, the sides were attached to the front and the back and then the top and the bottom.
- Make sure to pre-drill the holes so that the medium density fiberboard doesn’t split.
- Now, you will fasten the pieces together using the cordless drill and 2’’ drywall screws. There might be some spilling of glue, don’t worry it will eventually adhere.
- Now, that you can see the subwoofer box transition into its shape. There are only 2-3 more steps and you will be done.
- This is the moment of truth, the next step is to drop the subwoofer in to see if it fits or not. If you have followed the steps carefully there is little to no chance of the subwoofer not fitting in.
- With the subwoofer sitting comfortably in the opening, now use a pencil to make the screw hole locations. Then remove the subwoofer and pre-drilled holes for the mounting screws.
- It is best to make sure that everything is sealed and in place. Therefore, it is ideal to wait for the glue to dry. Make sure, to run a bead of silicone caulk over all of the box’s internal seals. You will also have to let the caulk cure for 12-24 hours before putting the subwoofer back in its place.
- After the caulk gets cured, connect the speaker wires to the subwoofer and place the subwoofer back in place to test it out.
These were the major building and assembling steps of making a subwoofer from scratch. You would be amazed to know that this would barely cost you above 30$. So, I hope that you will give it a try and share the results with me too!
Some Must Read Tips:
When you are choosing a subwoofer, it is essential to note the manufacturer’s enclosure size. The correct enclosure size is necessary to achieve maximum performance out of the sub.
Double thickness MDF:
The purpose of double thickness MDF is to provide strength and support to the box as a whole.
Have the entire supplies ready:
One rookie mistake which some of us do is that we do not follow the supplies list completely. As a result, if one of the tools is missing, it can be frustrating when you are in the middle of the project. So, to be on the safe side, make sure to double-check that you have every piece of the puzzle with you.
How to Build a Ported Subwoofer Box – Video Process
This is it from my side, now it is your turn to follow these steps and make the most out of your DIY skills. If you have any feedback feel free to share it with us.